Bristol's Garden Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Spaces
Each 20 minutes or so, an older diesel train pulls into a spray-painted stop. Nearby, a police siren pierces the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as storm clouds form.
It is maybe the last place you anticipate to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. But James Bayliss-Smith has managed to four dozen established plants heavy with plump purplish berries on a sprawling garden plot sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just above the city town centre.
"I've noticed people hiding heroin or whatever in the shrubbery," says the grower. "But you simply continue ... and continue caring for your grapevines."
The cameraman, 46, a documentary cameraman who also has a fermented beverage company, is not the only urban winemaker. He's pulled together a loose collective of growers who produce vintage from four hidden city grape gardens nestled in back gardens and community plots throughout Bristol. It is sufficiently underground to have an official name yet, but the group's WhatsApp group is called Grape Expectations.
City Vineyards Across the World
So far, the grower's plot is the sole location registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming global directory, which features more famous urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred plants on the slopes of Paris's renowned artistic district area and over three thousand grapevines overlooking and inside Turin. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative reviving city vineyards in traditional winemaking nations, but has identified them throughout the world, including urban centers in East Asia, South Asia and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens assist urban areas remain greener and ecologically varied. They protect open space from development by establishing long-term, productive farming plots within urban environments," says the organization's leader.
Like all wines, those produced in urban areas are a product of the earth the vines thrive in, the vagaries of the climate and the individuals who tend the grapes. "A bottle of wine represents the charm, local spirit, landscape and heritage of a city," notes the president.
Mystery Polish Variety
Back in Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the grapevines he grew from a plant abandoned in his garden by a Eastern European household. Should the precipitation arrives, then the birds may seize their chance to feast once more. "Here we have the mystery Eastern European variety," he says, as he cleans damaged and mouldy berries from the shimmering bunches. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they are certainly hardy. Unlike noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and additional renowned French grapes – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was bred by the Soviets."
Collective Efforts Throughout the City
The other members of the collective are additionally making the most of sunny interludes between showers of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden overlooking the city's glistening waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with barrels of vintage from Europe and Spain, one cultivator is harvesting her dark berries from about 50 vines. "I adore the aroma of these vines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, pausing with a container of grapes slung over her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you roll down the vehicle windows on vacation."
Grant, 52, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, inadvertently took over the vineyard when she moved back to the UK from Kenya with her household in recent years. She felt an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This plot has already endured three different owners," she explains. "I really like the concept of environmental care – of passing this on to future caretakers so they continue producing from this land."
Terraced Vineyards and Traditional Production
Nearby, the final two members of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has cultivated over 150 vines situated on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the muddy River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, the filmmaker, 60, is picking bunches of dusty purple dark berries from lines of plants slung across the hillside with the help of her child, Luca. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has contributed to streaming service's Great National Parks series and television network's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after observing her neighbor's grapevines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce interesting, enjoyable natural wine, which can sell for more than seven pounds a serving in the increasing quantity of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can actually make quality, natural wine," she says. "It's very on trend, but really it's resurrecting an traditional method of producing wine."
"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the natural microorganisms come off the skins and enter the liquid," says Scofield, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and red liquid. "That's how wines were historically produced, but commercial producers add preservatives to eliminate the natural cultures and subsequently incorporate a commercially produced yeast."
Challenging Conditions and Inventive Solutions
In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree another cultivator, who inspired Scofield to establish her grapevines, has gathered his companions to pick Chardonnay grapes from the 100 plants he has laid out neatly across two terraces. The former teacher, a northern English PE teacher who worked at Bristol University developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to France. But it is a difficult task to cultivate this particular variety in the dampness of the valley, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce French-style vintages in this location, which is a bit bonkers," admits Reeve with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages here, which is rather ambitious"
The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the only challenge encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has had to install a barrier on